Battambang
Discover Battambang
Battambang (Khmer: ក្រុងបាត់ដំបង) with about 119,000 people (2019), is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the nearby ancient temples, the circus and the bamboo railway. It is the capital of Battambang Province (population 987,000 in 2019). Despite being Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang is often overlooked in favor of the more popular Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Battambang is quieter, less commercial and cheaper, and provides an opportunity to see a slightly less Westernized Cambodian city. Remnants of French colonial architecture can be spotted around the city, and there are food and lodging options that will cater to most budgets and tastes.
Taste of Battambang...
Battambang's culinary traditions and reputation for producing high quality fruit, vegetables and rice led to it being designated in October 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City in the gastronomy category. There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended. You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. The bread that street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, similar to that found in Phnom Penh, baguette-shapes, but sprinkled with sugar. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city. Battambang is very hot during Feb–May, when air conditioning (which adds perhaps US$5 to room cost) is hard to do without. For those with vulnerable stomachs, the hot season is also the least safe, food-wise. Like all Cambodian cities, Battambang is dusty, and eye problems can result. Wear your largest sunglasses when moving around on foot or by tuk tuk. Street dogs (including those fed by stallholders in the main market, Psar Nath) occasionally attack non-locals, so carrying a stick or stones is a good precaution if out walking.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsNational Hwy 5 from Phnom Penh is around 5 hours. Hwy 5 runs northwest to Sisophon and Poipet. At Sisophon (1 hr), Hwy 6 branches off to Siem Reap (also a rough trip in parts). One boat a day travels from Siem Reap (for Angkor) to Battambang, departing Siem Reap at 07:00 and costs US$20. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boat threads its way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take between 6–12 hours, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday. During the dry season, when the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang, and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up truck. The city center is pretty compact and can be mostly explored by foot....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
The city center is pretty compact and can be mostly explored by foot. Unhappily, the locals have named the main cross-street 'Pub Street', after the street of the same name in Siem Reap - which it doesn't resemble at all. Battambang's roads and footpaths have deteriorated fairly dramatically since COVID, with potholes aplenty in both. Bicycles can be rented from most hotels or private companies for US$1-2 per day. Motorbikes can be rented from US$5 a day. The driving habits of locals are hazardous. Police may try to fine tourists on motorbikes. If pulled over, stay calm, smile, take the key out of the ignition (to prevent the police trying to ransom it), and pay a small fine of US$1–2. Tuk-tuks and motorbike drivers hang around popular tourist areas. As most of the interesting and useful destinations are quite close to each other, most rides should only cost you US$2–4.
Where to Stay
Battambang is very hot during Feb–May, when air conditioning (which adds perhaps US$5 to room cost) is hard to do without. For those with vulnerable stomachs, the hot season is also the least safe, food-wise. Like all Cambodian cities, Battambang is dusty, and eye problems can result. Wear your largest sunglasses when moving around on foot or by tuk tuk. Street dogs (including those fed by stallholders in the main market, Psar Nath) occasionally attack non-locals, so carrying a stick or stones is a good precaution if out walking. A general rule if you want to help out the kids begging on the streets is to buy them food but don't give them money. Adults with 'charity ID' collecting money 'for the children', generally near the river, are scammers. Sometimes they'll ask you to volunteer to teach local kids English: this generally ends in an attempt to get money from you.
Money & Budget
There are two large markets in the center, its easy to spot them on a map. Battambang's culinary traditions and reputation for producing high quality fruit, vegetables and rice led to it being designated in October 2023 as a UNESCO Creative City in the gastronomy category. There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended. You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
Battambang is very hot during Feb–May, when air conditioning (which adds perhaps US$5 to room cost) is hard to do without. For those with vulnerable stomachs, the hot season is also the least safe, food-wise. Like all Cambodian cities, Battambang is dusty, and eye problems can result. Wear your largest sunglasses when moving around on foot or by tuk tuk. Street dogs (including those fed by stallholders in the main market, Psar Nath) occasionally attack non-locals, so carrying a stick or stones is a good precaution if out walking. A general rule if you want to help out the kids begging on the streets is to buy them food but don't give them money. Adults with 'charity ID' collecting money 'for the children', generally near the river, are scammers. Sometimes they'll ask you to volunteer to teach local kids English: this generally ends in an attempt to get money from you.