Phnom Penh
Discover Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap Rivers, is the capital of Cambodia and its largest city. Having been liberated in the late 1970s from Khmer Rouge oppression, the city has exploded in activity in the 21st century and now a thumping little metropolis, small at heart but big in vibe. While not yet a rival to Bangkok, it's getting there; get it while it lasts, before it becomes Bangkok. Phnom Penh was largely depopulated during the Khmer Rouge regime, with most of its population deported to camps in the countryside. It was liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, and has long remained a bit rough. Things have improved; however, some roads remain shabby, traffic is persistently chaotic, electricity occasionally strained (never mind your precious internet). But on the whole, the city is reasonably modern.
What to Experience in Phnom Penh
Taste of Phnom Penh...
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats not found elsewhere in the country. These include French-influenced dining and Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes. Pizzas, banana pancakes, and fried rice are always easy to find. The recent influx of Chinese capital in Phnom Penh has brought with it an influx of Chinese cuisine as well, including a significant number of regionally focused restaurants. The river front hosts everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros. Mon Closed. American Restaurant that mainly serves Western dishes and a limited selection of Khmer dishes. Large selection of imported soft drinks and alcohol available. Popular with expats, staff are friendly and speak English. Prices shown on menu in US dollars.. (updated Sep 2025) The coffee scene in Phnom Penh has exploded in the last few years with several global chains present all around. But there are also numerous small and independent coffee shops to be found. Phnom Penh's most famous watering hole, the 11.566936104.9314575 Foreign Correspondents' Club (FCC) , has been closed since 2018 for "renovations", and as of 2025 the building remains covered in scaffolding. It's still a local landmark often used for directions. Places to hang out after dark include St 136 near riverside, St 104 and St 108 near the St 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.
A Rich Past
Explore the historical roots that shaped Phnom Penh into what it is today.
In 1975 Phnom Penh was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975, who completely emptied it of civilians and allowed it to crumble for several years. The city's small class of skilled or educated professionals was systematically murdered by Pol Pot, or driven into exile. Cambodia's developing economy and institutionalised corruption have concentrated wealth into a new class of nouveau riche that now frequent Phnom Penh's new fancy hotels and restaurants. Increasing tourist numbers are also bringing about improving tourist infrastructure. All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered. Some major thoroughfares also have names. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north–south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbered streets run west–east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g., the west side of what was Boeung Kak Lake). House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially on a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number on the same street. Getting there and away (Techo International Airport): With the financial support of China, Cambodia's main roads have improved considerably....
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsGetting there and away (Techo International Airport): With the financial support of China, Cambodia's main roads have improved considerably. The main highways that run on either side of the Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang, Sisophon, Poipet (for Thailand) and other major cities and towns are well-paved and in good condition. The quality of buses runs the gamut, with the less desirable buses being a few dollars cheaper than more comfortable options. Safety standards are low and crashes (not always reported) are still happening, even for "quality" buses. There is no official bus station in Phnom Penh, but transport companies are spread around the city. Try the streets just west of the central market (Mekong Express, Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, Capitol Tours, GST Express), north of the night market (Giant Ibis), or the northern part of Street 109 to find a company for leaving Phnom Penh....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape. Some smaller streets and footpaths are rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating is not too difficult. Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) can be rented for US$5–6 per day, sometimes through guesthouses. Traffic is chaotic and dangerous, even by SE Asian standards. Wear a helmet and drive carefully. Two rental shops are on Monivong Blvd: Lucky Bike Rental and New Bike Rental. Accept that paying US$1–2 police "fines" is part of driving. Theft is common: park in designated guarded areas and pay a small parking fee or use a lock and chain, which should be provided. Motorbike-taxis (motodops or simply motos) should take you anywhere cheaply. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel. Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.
Where to Stay
A good range of accommodation is available around the city. The budget traveller area was area known as Lakeside, near the now filled in Beoung Kak lake. The colony of guesthouses has been decimated, but not eradicated. Remaining businesses are desperate for clients, which makes prices very cheap. Guesthouses 10 and 11 still exist and offer rooms from US$4/night and US$3/night respectively. Services include such laundry, Internet, money exchange, ATMs, and restaurants, including an excellent Indian restaurant. St 258 (near the Cambodia/Vietnam Friendship Park), Street 51 (near Wat Langka) and St 111 and 172 also have some good budget options, with street 278 now hosting many budget hostels and bars that were once located on the lake. As in any big city, be wary walking alone at night. Daytime phone and bag snatching is not uncommon. Women are the main targets. When riding in a tuk-tuk keep your phone and bag toward the middle of the tuk-tuk to protect against snatching.
Money & Budget
Money changers, particular the common Wing agents, are plentiful near the central market and display their rates on boards. But also elsewhere in the city, the green Wing offices can be found. Rates for US dollars are absurdly competitive with a buy-sell spread of often less than 0.5% (not 5%!). So, it doesn't barely make sense to shop around for the best rate. There are plenty of ATMs dispensing US dollars and riel with international cards. Typical withdrawal charges are US$5 regardless of amount withdrawn, typically US$450 is the maximum. Canadia Bank charge US$5 per transaction, maximum single withdrawal US$500. There are many ABA Bank branches, which charge $6 for withdrawal of US$500, $8 if over $500. Most banks are happy to change big notes to smaller ones or change damaged notes.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
As in any big city, be wary walking alone at night. Daytime phone and bag snatching is not uncommon. Women are the main targets. When riding in a tuk-tuk keep your phone and bag toward the middle of the tuk-tuk to protect against snatching. When on a motorbike taxi, keep your belongings between you and the driver or in front of the driver. Do not carry or wear your bag on your back! Scammers and con men sometimes work the tourist areas such as the riverfront, Hun Sen Park and the Sorya Mall. One example: a group of men start a conversation, make friends, claim to have a relative who is soon moving to your country of origin, and invite you to dinner at their house. Once you get there, they will apparently try to trick you into playing a rigged card game for money, and if that fails then they will give you stories about sick relatives and ask money for that instead. Beware of fake monks. Real monks don't walk around begging from tourists.
Glimpses of Phnom Penh
Cityscape, Phnom Penh
a city with a large building
Independence Monument at night, Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh City Sunset
Rainy Khmer Mornings
National Museum of Cambodia
Drone in Phnom Penh
white and gold concrete building during night time
a person in a red robe holding an umbrella
Independence monument of Cambodia.
Cityscape, Phnom Penh
a city with a large building
Independence Monument at night, Phnom Penh