West Bank
Discover West Bank
The West Bank is an area located in the Middle East between Israel and Jordan, to the north of the Dead Sea. It forms the larger half of the semi-autonomous Palestinian Territories, the smaller half being the Gaza Strip. De facto control on the ground tends to be Israeli, Palestinian (Fatah since the Hamas takeover of Gaza) or some degree of joint sovereignty. Be prepared for that to affect your travels and to come upon checkpoints and signs barring Israeli citizens from entering certain areas. Israel refers to the area as Judea and Samaria. This area is known as the West Bank because it lies on the western bank of the Jordan River. This part of the world is steeped in Biblical history and contains many sites of religious and archaeological significance. It has been under Israeli administration since 1967 with future status uncertain and still to be resolved, between Israel and the Palestinian Authority (PA). Historically and among some parts of Israeli society, especially among right-wingers the area has also been known as Judea and Samaria.
Taste of West Bank...
Ramallah has a number of good restaurants, including Darna (Palestinian and Lebanese food—there are pictures on the wall of many famous people who have visited, including Kofi Annan, Richard Gere and Jimmy Carter), Pronto (excellent pizza and Italian food), Ziryab (relaxing place with a fireplace), Stone's and Sangria's. There is an excellent ice cream shop in downtown called Rukab's. The locally-made ice cream is a real treat on a hot day, in addition to the fresh juice shops around the central square, Al-Manara. Falafel, Shawarma, Hummus, Musakhan, Tabouli, Kofta, Knafeh, Kibbeh, Maqluba, Baba Ghanoush, and other delicious cuisine are widely available. The settlement of Beitar Ilit has a great bar that serves Kosher Chicken soup with harif. The settlement of Ariel has many fast food restaurants and other tasty kosher treats. Birzeit University, just outside of Ramallah, has a long and illustrious history, and offers Arabic immersion classes for foreigners. In addition, there are similar programs at the Bethlehem Bible College and Bethlehem University in Bethlehem, the Palestinian-American University in Jenin and An-Najah in Nablus. There is also the Palestinian-American University of Jenin located in the Christian Palestinian village of Zababdeh.
Climate
Temperate; temperature and precipitation vary with altitude, warm to hot summers, cool to mild winters. Mostly rugged dissected upland, very hilly and mountainous, heavy vegetation is common in many places. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth reachable on foot. The main languages in the West Bank are Arabic and Hebrew, although English and French are also understood to varying degrees. Most road and tourist signs in Areas A and B will be written in Arabic and English, while most signs in Area C will be written in those languages and Hebrew. Many Palestinians understand Hebrew, due to business and governmental contacts. However, it is not advisable to speak Hebrew in Palestinian cities or Arabic in Jewish settlements, as it may arouse suspicion. Russian is also common among students who have gone to university in Russia or Eastern Europe. Many Israeli settlements contain many emigres from the United States who speak English and some have Hasidic Jews who speak Yiddish.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsThere are no civilian airports within the West Bank, and the nearest major airport is Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport (TLV). From Ben Gurion Airport, it is possible to take a 50-minute taxi or shuttle ride to Jerusalem and from Jerusalem to continue on to the major West Bank cities of Bethlehem or Ramallah. Alternatively, fly to Amman Queen Alia International Airport (AMM), and enter the West Bank at the Allenby crossing near Jericho. When using the Allenby crossing, you won't get a Jordanian exit stamp because of Jordan's role as a care-taker of the West Bank, so there is no "proof" of exiting Jordan (and therefore entering Israeli-controlled territory) on your passport. For more on this issue see Visa trouble. Palestinian ID card-holders must fly through Amman because the Israeli government prohibits them from entering Israel at Ben Gurion Airport. It is best for people who may be listed under the Israeli census as having a Palestinian ID card (by birth to a card-holder, etc....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
Roads used by Israelis (in Area C) are generally in very good shape. However, within Arab areas the quality of roads varies, with frequent speed bumps requiring constant alertness. Numerous Israeli roadblocks impede the movement of Palestinians between Palestinian cities in the West Bank and also between the West Bank and both East Jerusalem and Jordan. Visitors who travel to Arab areas of the West Bank should also expect to encounter Israeli checkpoints, and those of Palestinian origin may be subjected to strip searches or other intrusive procedures. Meanwhile, Israeli citizens are barred entirely from entering certain areas under Palestinian administration. Driving in the West Bank is relatively safe and has some wonderful scenery, particularly along route 90. You can avoid excessive controls by entering via Ariel, driving over Nablus and leaving after Rotem. Taxis are a good option, but they can be expensive. If you're part of a tour, your tour bus is even better.
Money & Budget
The Israeli new shekel (NIS or ILS) is used throughout the West Bank, including in Palestinian areas. US dollars seem to be widely accepted at tourist shops in Jericho and Bethlehem. Ramallah has a number of good restaurants, including Darna (Palestinian and Lebanese food—there are pictures on the wall of many famous people who have visited, including Kofi Annan, Richard Gere and Jimmy Carter), Pronto (excellent pizza and Italian food), Ziryab (relaxing place with a fireplace), Stone's and Sangria's. There is an excellent ice cream shop in downtown called Rukab's. The locally-made ice cream is a real treat on a hot day, in addition to the fresh juice shops around the central square, Al-Manara.
Language & Talk
The main languages in the West Bank are Arabic and Hebrew, although English and French are also understood to varying degrees. Most road and tourist signs in Areas A and B will be written in Arabic and English, while most signs in Area C will be written in those languages and Hebrew. Many Palestinians understand Hebrew, due to business and governmental contacts. However, it is not advisable to speak Hebrew in Palestinian cities or Arabic in Jewish settlements, as it may arouse suspicion. Russian is also common among students who have gone to university in Russia or Eastern Europe. Many Israeli settlements contain many emigres from the United States who speak English and some have Hasidic Jews who speak Yiddish.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
Watch the news and check the situation before you go. It is not a good idea to visit if fighting between Palestinians and Israelis happens to be intense at the given time. However, violence in the West Bank tends to be very localized. Violence in Nablus, for instance, should not necessarily hinder travel to Ramallah. Still, use discretion. It is important to carry your passport (including Israeli entry card, if applicable) with you while traveling in the West Bank, especially if taking buses. Israeli checkpoints can be just about anywhere and may require you to identify yourself. Your phones and cameras may be inspected at Israeli military checkpoints, so be sure not to film anything that might cast the Israeli military in a bad light; doing so will at best result in those videos and images being deleted, and at worst could get you arrested on national security grounds.