Pokhara
Discover Pokhara
Pokhara is the second largest city in Nepal with about 520,000 people in 2021. It is the starting point for most of the treks in the Annapurna area. It is a very popular location with most people staying around the beautiful Fewa Lake. Dozens of hotels and restaurants are sprouting like mushrooms everywhere, and today it is much easier to find modern amenities not common to other locations in Nepal, but Pokhara is losing its small town charm and the lakeside now feels more like Khao San Road (with all the usual: yoga, reiki, massages by blind people, overpriced souvenirs and disingenuous locals). Pokhara is still beautiful and many great and genuine people can be found, but it takes some work on the traveler's side. If you intend to stay on the lakeside road, para-glide, and trek to Annapurna, you will be getting a very inauthentic version of Nepal. If you make an effort to get out of the tourist areas, you will find amazing scenery, great people, and unforgettable experiences.
Taste of Pokhara...
The cheapest (and often the best) food is found at the street stalls, selling momos/dumplings, samosas or fried noodles. Early in the morning, children walk the streets with trays of pastries; chocolate croissants, cinnamon rolls and other cakes. The bazaar across from the old bus station has basic Nepali dishes from Rs60, and a nice atmosphere amongst the bustle of vendors. Try the local beer (Gurkha/Everest), and if you are brave the home brew which comes in several forms "Chang": A rice or millet beer that's slightly sour and earthy. "roxi" a stronger fermentation of Chang, And "three panni roxi": very strong and tastes awful. Virtually all tourist accommodations are in Lakeside and Damside, near Phewa Lake. In addition, there are around 12 guesthouses uphill in Sarangkot which offer better views and less air pollution, but are much more expensive for both accommodation and food. Note that these hotels are not accessible by car - they are a 20-minute walk uphill on gravel from the taxi stand in Sarangkot (Rs500 for a taxi, less for a microbus). Work-aways and farm stays are common, many will ask for money to cover volunteers food. It is possible to find medium or long-term accomndation in Pokhara. Best by far is to ask locally. Anything geared exclusively for tourists in the Lakeside area will start at about US$250/300 per month for a probably new but not really special place. It takes some time but if you scout around you can find good deals for US$100-150 per month.
Festivals & Events
Experience the vibrant festivals and cultural celebrations of Pokhara.
There are several ATMs in central Lakeside and all over Pokhara. All charge a withdrawal fee of Rs500 per transaction. Nabil Bank and Standard Chartered Bank ATMs have the highest withdrawal limit of Rs35,000 per transaction. The cheapest (and often the best) food is found at the street stalls, selling momos/dumplings, samosas or fried noodles. Early in the morning, children walk the streets with trays of pastries; chocolate croissants, cinnamon rolls and other cakes. The bazaar across from the old bus station has basic Nepali dishes from Rs60, and a nice atmosphere amongst the bustle of vendors. Try the local beer (Gurkha/Everest), and if you are brave the home brew which comes in several forms "Chang": A rice or millet beer that's slightly sour and earthy. "roxi" a stronger fermentation of Chang, And "three panni roxi": very strong and tastes awful. Virtually all tourist accommodations are in Lakeside and Damside, near Phewa Lake.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsTourist buses (Rs700-800, 6-7 hr) and crowded local buses/microbuses (Rs400-600, 6-7 hr) travel the 200-km journey between Kathmandu and Pokhara almost every 15 minutes from 07:30 until late afternoon. Night buses are available, but the ride is painful. Greenline operates a convenient bus every morning between the popular tourist areas of Thamel in Kathmandu and Lakeside in Pokhara (US$20, lunch included). Swift operates comfortable tourist buses for US$15 per ride. The bus runs twice daily, leaving in the morning and in the evening. Swift buses offer comfortable, reclining and extra-wide seats (three per row). The road is winding with many switchbacks but offers wonderful views of hills and rural Nepalese lifestyle. The drivers will generally not drive too fast but some will calmly weave in and out of the stream of opposing traffic and slam on the brakes when a stop is required, making for a scary ride if you look out the front window....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
Pokhara is a mid-sized city and can be traversed on cycle or car or bike. Walking is necessary to get to places where vehicles or bicycles can't reach. Buses and minivans operate on most of the popular routes. These are crowded and uncomfortable but the fare is cheap and student discounts may be offered. Fare is Rs20–40 per way (as of March 2023). Comfortable taxis are available to be hired. You may also use InDrive app to hail a taxi or motorbike. Bicycles can be hired in a lot of shops in Lakeside (Rs300-2,000/day). Make sure the seat is not too hard, and try realigning the seat if it is set uphill way, instead of sloping down. It is also possible to hire a scooter or a motorbike in Lakeside (from Rs550/day). You will have to buy petrol (Rs120/litre). It is not possible to reach Sarangkot or the World Peace Pagoda with an automatic motorbike or scooter due to the steep uphill road, so get a manual gear model if you intend to travel to those places.
Where to Stay
Virtually all tourist accommodations are in Lakeside and Damside, near Phewa Lake. In addition, there are around 12 guesthouses uphill in Sarangkot which offer better views and less air pollution, but are much more expensive for both accommodation and food. Note that these hotels are not accessible by car - they are a 20-minute walk uphill on gravel from the taxi stand in Sarangkot (Rs500 for a taxi, less for a microbus). Work-aways and farm stays are common, many will ask for money to cover volunteers food. It is possible to find medium or long-term accomndation in Pokhara. Best by far is to ask locally. Anything geared exclusively for tourists in the Lakeside area will start at about US$250/300 per month for a probably new but not really special place. It takes some time but if you scout around you can find good deals for US$100-150 per month. Keep in mind that most locals make a very meager salary usually under US$200.
Money & Budget
There are several ATMs in central Lakeside and all over Pokhara. All charge a withdrawal fee of Rs500 per transaction. Nabil Bank and Standard Chartered Bank ATMs have the highest withdrawal limit of Rs35,000 per transaction. The cheapest (and often the best) food is found at the street stalls, selling momos/dumplings, samosas or fried noodles. Early in the morning, children walk the streets with trays of pastries; chocolate croissants, cinnamon rolls and other cakes. The bazaar across from the old bus station has basic Nepali dishes from Rs60, and a nice atmosphere amongst the bustle of vendors. Try the local beer (Gurkha/Everest), and if you are brave the home brew which comes in several forms "Chang": A rice or millet beer that's slightly sour and earthy.