Miyoshi (Tokushima)/Iya Valley
Discover Miyoshi (Tokushima)/Iya Valley
Iya Valley (祖谷 Iya) is a remote mountain valley deep in the heart of Shikoku. One of Japan's Three Hidden Valleys, Iya has dramatic mountain scenery, traditional thatched roof homes, and historic vine bridges. Iya largely remains stuck in a time-warp compared to the rest of modern Japan and most of the valley remains remote, unspoiled, and traditional: the Iya Gorge section at the start of the valley remains unmarred by development, the overall natural splendor of the valley proves to be a great escape while soaking in the bounty of its hotsprings, the tall peaks offer some of the finest hiking in Shikoku, and many of the less-visited mountainside hamlets offer glimpses into a past way of life that somehow still clings on here even though it has utterly vanished elsewhere in Japan. Supposedly a hiding place for the fleeing samurai of the defeated Heike clan from centuries past, the isolation of the Iya valley has a rich history of being a waypoint for wanderers and a place one could go to be away from it all. The valley was raised into the Japanese and Western consciousness by outspoken Japanese-culture conservationist Alex Kerr, whose book Lost Japan (ISBN 0864423705) presented an idyllic picture of a misty valley stuck in a time warp to days gone by, though the valley has developed more since Kerr came.
What to Experience in Miyoshi (Tokushima)/Iya Valley
Taste of Miyoshi (Tokushima)/Iya Valley...
The local tofu (known here as iwa-dofu or ishi-dofu, which translates as "stone tofu") is unique in that it is so dense that it was traditionally carried around with a strap of rope. With a rich flavor and hearty mouth-feel, it's unlike any other tofu in Japan. Most large hotels serve it with the course meals and some smaller places have it available as a side dish. Iya potatoes are a traditional staple grown in the small terraced farm plots seen throughout the valley. The potatoes are small and dense due to the rocky terrain. And for the culinary aficionado, try the locally produced konyaku which is a rubbery gelatin produced with Japanese yams and attains its grey color by being mixed with the ash of burnt cedar tree branches. Wild game in the form of deer meat and mountain boar has become more common due to a hunter's butchery being established in Higashi-Iya in 2014. It can be found in some places but may only be available at special request. Nishi-Iya and Mi-no-Koshi have the usual range of rice and noodle joints for visitors, all a bit on the expensive side by Japanese standards. Try grilled amego (a local river fish) that are encrusted with salt at ¥500 a pop, sold by little stands here and there by the vine bridge. Or opt for a roasted skewer of dekomawashi which consists of the dense local tofu, even denser local konyaku, and the even denser still local potatoes and all slathered with miso paste at about ¥300 each.
Festivals & Events
Experience the vibrant festivals and cultural celebrations of Miyoshi (Tokushima)/Iya Valley.
There are several festivals of various size held throughout the year. Most local Shinto shrines host their own festivals for the surrounding neighborhood hamlet, usually once or twice a year according to their own traditions. In these events, local customs often call for a group of men to carry a small (70–150 kg) portable shrine (mikoshi) around the shrine grounds while accompanied with drummers, people in costume, and sometimes pairs of people throwing long bamboo staffs. Each shrine and neighborhood has its own customs (one or two even have the attendees engage in sumo wrestling), but unfortunately, due to an ever dwindling population, many of these traditions are being lost. Dates vary from shrine to shrine and are according to the lunar calendar, so unless directly contacting a local resident, one would probably happen upon such an event only by chance (though if you do, you'd be warmly welcomed).
Climate
Though the Iya Valley is in southern Japan, the temperature can be significantly lower than the rest of Shikoku, especially as one gains elevation. Weather info can be found in English at the Japan Meteorogical webpage, with precipitation forecasts for either Kochi or Takamatsu usually being more accurate for the Iya Valley area than those of Tokushima City (in winter, subtract about 5 to 8 degrees from the Kochi temperature to get an idea if any rain there should be considered snow in Iya). A daily weather log for Kyojo (in the center of the valley) can be found here which can give an idea about recent temperatures and conditions. Getting in no longer requires a week of hiking along misty mountain trails, but it certainly remains a bit more difficult than most Japanese destinations.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsGetting in no longer requires a week of hiking along misty mountain trails, but it certainly remains a bit more difficult than most Japanese destinations. To make the most out of your visit, it is highly recommended to use a vehicle (such as a rental car, see Get Around for options) since public transport into and around the valley is limited, with many places unreachable or very time-consuming to access by bus. The central location of the Iya valley makes Shikoku's four airports viable options. Cars can be rented at any airport. For international connections, Kansai Airport near Osaka is the way to go. Buses go from central Osaka to Awa-Ikeda station several times a day (4 hours). The nearest train station to the main sights of the Iya Valley is at Oboke, which is along the JR Dosan Line between Kochi and Takamatsu....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
In the valley, public transportation is limited to a few buses a day, particularly in Higashi Iya. If using only a bus you will require much more time than if traveling by car, and since buses can be several hours apart and only along the main road, you may be limited to the number of sights that can be seen in a day. Two people traveling by bus to and around the valley can easily accrue the same or more in bus ticket costs in a single day as would be the rate for a small rental car. Car rental or even hitchhiking are the fastest way of getting around, but hitchhikers beware: at times the main road may see only a handful of cars per hour on a weekday. However the locals are friendly enough (expect little to no English) and are inclined to pick up a hitcher when they occasionally appear. There would be little if any security concerns. If asked, some hotels offer transportation services to/from JR Oboke station and some local sights.
Where to Stay
It is strongly recommended that you make a reservation before arriving in Iya. Some places can fill up on busy weekends, while some smaller places may not be able to handle on-the-spot arrivals (often there is only a single staff on hand who may be unable to prepare a room without notice, and if no rooms are booked that night, there may even be no staff there at all). Also, it is customary in Japan to state the time you plan to arrive when reserving (as in "about 16:00"), so if you foresee arriving later than planned, you should call to say when you will come, even if calling the same day as arrival. Not doing so can lead to problems, the worst of which would be that you are considered a no-show, and if no other guests are there, the staff may go home for the night, leaving you alone in the dark without a place to sleep. There are no youth hostels in Iya — the nearest are in Oboke and Ikeda, outside the entrance to the valley — but it's an excellent place for camping.
Money & Budget
Iya doesn't have even a single chain convenience store (one of the only places in Japan?), but there are some mom-and-pop type grocery shops throughout the valley, and quite a few souvenir shops (particularly near the main vine bridge in Nishi-Iya). It's best to bring along anything even remotely exotic. You can get good supplies of groceries from Boke-Mart, the local grocery near the train station at Oboke, but selection would be better at the full sized supermarket in Ikeda near the bus station. (See the Grocery section under Eat for more details on buying food in the valley.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
The Iya Valley is one of the safest places in Japan, and the local people will go out of their way to be of assistance if necessary, even though they may not speak any English. For emergencies call 119 for fire or rescue, or 110 for police. An English operator can be connected. There are two local clinics. The doctors and staff at each location speak a little English. The nearest large hospital is in Ikeda.