Matsuyama
Discover Matsuyama
Quite provincial yet hospitable to travelers, and a hub of business and shopping amongst the lazy calm of the countryside, Matsuyama has much to offer in the way of curious literary and cultural assets. With a population of 510,000 (2019), Matsuyama is the largest city on Shikoku, though still noticeably sleepier than cities of comparable size on the Japanese mainland. The city is in a river basin formed by the flow of the Ishite and Shigenobu rivers, and nestled between the Ishizuchi mountain range to the south and Takanawa Mountains to the north. The center of town is Matsuyama-shi Station (松山市駅, "Shieki" for short), south of Matsuyama Castle, which serves as a hub for local trams, buses, and the private Iyotetsu train line. JR Matsuyama Station is a short walk west.
What to Experience in Matsuyama
Taste of Matsuyama...
Matsuyama is a great place to indulge a sweet tooth. Botchan dango (坊ちゃん団子) headline every sweet shop in town. They're skewered rice dumplings covered in bean paste dyed with green tea, eggs, and azuki beans. This soft, sweet snack was popularized by Sōseki, who had such a weakness for them that he included the treats in Botchan. Another local favorite are the cute little tarts (タルト). Originally derived from Nagasaki's Castella cake in the 1600s, the Matsuyama variety replaces jam with azuki bean paste, and rolls up the cake. For a healthier sweet, citrus fruits come in a multitude of species, including iyokan (grapefruit-like) and dekopon (huge, orange and puckered). mikan (mandarin orange) are mainly harvested in the fall and are very cheap, but they're so treasured that they are used as offerings to ancestral spirits first - living people eat them only some days later. The drinking district is fairly well-concentrated; the streets around the Okaido Arcade are the place to begin a bar crawl. Matsuyama is a safe city, even by Japanese standards. Theft has never been an issue at Dōgo Onsen, but there are coin lockers (¥100) if you have valuables to store.
Climate
Matsuyama is hottest in July and August. January and February are the coldest months, with temperatures rarely getting below freezing. The Limousine Bus connects the airport to Dōgo Onsen, running at 20-minute intervals (¥450) via JR Matsuyama Sta (¥300). Matsuyama is on the JR Yosan Line. From the mainland, take the San'yo Shinkansen to Okayama, and transfer to the Shiokaze Limited Express, which will get you to Matsuyama in about three hours (¥6630). The Ishizuchi Limited Express connects Matsuyama with Takamatsu on the eastern end of Shikoku (2½ hours, ¥6010). The Uwakai and a few other limited express services run to Uwajima (75 minutes, ¥3410). (Many limited express trains in Shikoku combine or divide with others at certain stations, so be sure you're in the correct part of the train.) The Sunrise Seto overnight train from Tokyo departs at 22:00. It goes to Sakaide (坂出) station, the first stop after crossing the long Seto-Ohashi bridge, and the station before Takamatsu.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsThe Limousine Bus connects the airport to Dōgo Onsen, running at 20-minute intervals (¥450) via JR Matsuyama Sta (¥300). Matsuyama is on the JR Yosan Line. From the mainland, take the San'yo Shinkansen to Okayama, and transfer to the Shiokaze Limited Express, which will get you to Matsuyama in about three hours (¥6630). The Ishizuchi Limited Express connects Matsuyama with Takamatsu on the eastern end of Shikoku (2½ hours, ¥6010). The Uwakai and a few other limited express services run to Uwajima (75 minutes, ¥3410). (Many limited express trains in Shikoku combine or divide with others at certain stations, so be sure you're in the correct part of the train.) The Sunrise Seto overnight train from Tokyo departs at 22:00. It goes to Sakaide (坂出) station, the first stop after crossing the long Seto-Ohashi bridge, and the station before Takamatsu. After a 40-minute wait (during which you can get a bite to eat), take the Ishizuchi limited express to Matsuyama, arriving at 10:00....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
If you plan on staying for an extended period of time (or believe you will spend more than ¥2000 on transportation), you may want to buy an IC Card at Shieki, which gives 10% discounts on all Iyotetsu transportation (including taxis). Traveling on foot is an entirely viable way of getting around downtown at a comfortable pace. Trams (streetcars) have a flat fare, ¥200 per trip (December 2023) or ¥100 for children. A one-day pass costs ¥400 (November 2014). There is no transfer discount. Of the lines that run around the city, route # 5 is the most useful for travelers, as it runs between the JR Matsuyama station and Dogo Onsen, passing Matsuyama Castle and the Okaido shopping arcade. Route # 3 connects Dogo Onsen with Matsuyama-shi station (for the Iyo Railway). You can also tour a few Botchan sites on the Botchan Ressha, which is a recreation of the old steam-powered trams (though the modern version runs on diesel).
Where to Stay
Matsuyama is a safe city, even by Japanese standards. Theft has never been an issue at Dōgo Onsen, but there are coin lockers (¥100) if you have valuables to store.
Money & Budget
A stroll around Dōgo Onsen, particularly the Yunomachi shopping corridor, will turn up plenty of tourist-oriented souvenir shops. Look for Iyo Kasuri cloth, which was traditionally woven with thread-dyed indigo, but is now made in many vibrant hues and is used for clothing, toys and accessories. (Kasuri means "splashed pattern".) Another item of note is Tobe pottery, which boasts a history of over 220 years. Designated a National Traditional Craft, it's valued for its thickness and simplicity, and the sensual contrast of the indigo against pristine white ceramic ware. Shops in Yunomachi sell Tobeyaki, but Tobe the town is not far from Matsuyama if you'd prefer to go to the source. The Gentangai Arcade, just east of Shieki, is the place to look for more contemporary and eclectic items.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
Matsuyama is a safe city, even by Japanese standards. Theft has never been an issue at Dōgo Onsen, but there are coin lockers (¥100) if you have valuables to store.
Nearby Destinations
Glimpses of Matsuyama
steps to the sea from a shrine
People stand in a japanese gate.
A person walks under trees in a park.
Daily Life in Japan
Stone wall and leafy tree in a green landscape.
Lush green leaves and branches in nature.
Orange train passes by houses on a hillside.
Dusk on the sea in Matsuyama, Japan
Japanese castle on a hill with people below
Interior of an empty train with pink and blue seats.
steps to the sea from a shrine
People stand in a japanese gate.
A person walks under trees in a park.