Iriomote
Discover Iriomote
While the second-largest of all Okinawa islands, Iriomote's population is barely over 2,000 and visitors, at over 150,000 a year, outnumber residents by almost 100:1. 90% of the island is covered in dense jungles and swampy mangroves, most of which are either part of the Iriomote National Park or protected state land, and the island is unquestionably one of the few remaining great wildernesses of Japan. Together with Tokunoshima, Amami Oshima and the northern part of the Okinawa Island it was listed as a natural world heritage site by UNESCO in 2021. Pretty much all of the island's population lives along the coast. Clockwise from the west, the major settlements are Shirahama (白浜), Uehara (上原), Funaura (船浦) and Ōhara (大原). The southern stretch between Ohara and Shirahama is effectively untouched coastline, with no roads and only a few isolated fishing villages near the western end.
Taste of Iriomote...
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Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsDespite its size Iriomote does not even have a landing strip, so all visitors must arrive by boat. The nearest airport is in neighboring Ishigaki. Two ports on the island have services from Ishigaki, operated by Anei Kankō and Yaeyama Kankō Ferry (which share tickets offices and boat schedules), and by Ishigaki Dream Kankō Ferry. Almost all visitors use the rapid services listed below, but dedicated penny-pinchers may opt for Yaeyama's thrice-weekly slow cargo boats to Ohara (2 hours, ¥1,070) and Uehara via Hatoma (3 hours, ¥1,380) instead. Round-trip tickets are generally available at about 10% discount. Ohara, in the south-east coast, is the busiest port on the island and accessible in all but the very worst weather. Anei, Yaeyama and Ishigaki Dream operate boats roughly hourly for a fixed ¥1,540 and take about 35 minutes. Anei and Yaeyama boats both service to Uehara in the north of the island. Both services cost ¥2,000 and take about 40 minutes....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
The port Uehara is probably your preferred place to start exploring the island. Most sights are relatively easy to reach from here. Bike, scooter, and car rental are found near the harbor. Public transport on Iriomote is rather limited, but most lodges on the island offer free transfers to/from the nearest port, and both Anei and Yaeyama operate free shuttle services timed to meet ferry departures. Iriomote Kōtsū runs 5 services per day in each direction from Shirahama to Funaura (30 min, ¥390), 3 of which continue across the north coast to Ohara on the east (from Funaura 50 min, ¥670). Tell the driver where you're going when getting on and pay when you get off. A three-day bus pass costs ¥1,000. The 20 km-long and demanding "Iriomote-jima Island Nature Trail" crosses the island. The southern terminus is over 1 km from the Ohara port, and not labeled well, so a north-to-south passage, beginning with the Urauchi River cruise, is the recommended route.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Iriomote is typically either very expensive or very cheap in old houses. Softbank has 3G and 4G coverage in populated areas and around the coasts, but much of the interior of the island lacks coverage. Head back to Ishigaki by boat, and from there you can explore the rest of the Yaeyama Islands or Okinawa.
Money & Budget
The Yamaneko wildcat may be elusive in real life, but it's difficult to avoid in souvenir shops, which plaster the poor creature on every surface imaginable. Many Yamaneko souvenirs are also sold on Ishigaki. Iriomote has a scattering of places to eat, most of which double up as izakaya watering holes in the evening. But be aware that it's easy to find yourself wanting to eat lunch with no lunch in the vicinity. Though Uehara offers more tourist-targeted food options, Ohara is the larger settlement on the island, with a number of bars and restaurants.