Hakodate
Discover Hakodate
Hakodate (函館) is a port city in Southern Hokkaidō, Japan. Separated by the 20-km long Tsugaru Strait (津軽海峡) from Honshu, Japan's main island, the city has naturally been seen as an entrance to Hokkaido. Like Kanazawa and Nagasaki, Hakodate is one of the hidden gems of Japanese tourism. Everyone should see Kyoto and Tokyo, because they're amazing cities. But Japanese domestic tourists, having done those cities before, come in droves to some places that international tourists may not have heard of and appreciate the fabulous food, culture and history of some of Japan's lesser known cities. Hakodate should not be missed on a trip to Hokkaido. Hakodate is located on the south coast of the Southern Circuit in Hokkaido, the northernmost major island of Japan. As one of the first cities in Japan to be opened to trade, like Yokohama and Kobe, there are numerous signs of foreign influence in Hakodate, notably in architecture.
What to Experience in Hakodate
Taste of Hakodate...
Hakodate's signature fish is squid and its signature dish is Hakodate shio rāmen (noodle with salty soup. not to be confused with shoyu ramen), a version of the ubiquitous noodle dish prepared with — you guessed it — squid stock instead of the usual pork. Nearby Mori-machi is also reputed to have Japan's finest ika-meshi, rice-stuffed squid. If you dare, eat the odori-don or ike ika-don dish, where a live squid is caught from the fish tank, its head removed, sliced and served as a side dish, and the rest placed on top of a rice bowl. The squid is so fresh that you can still see it change colours and move its tentacles on the plate as you pour the soy sauce! There are two main drinking districts in Hakodate, Daimon, which is close to the station, and Goryōkaku, in particular Hon-Cho. Foreigners seem to be more catered to in the Goryōkaku area. Visitors unused to icy conditions should be careful in winter of the icy conditions, particularly of black ice. Cars may skid in the streets and pedestrians can fall victim to it on the sidewalks. Do as the Japanese do: simply stand up and keep walking like nothing happened. As elsewhere in Japan, Hakodate is comparatively very safe when it comes to petty crime. One exception that seems to happen in Hokkaido, albeit rarely even then, is being approached by a foreigner claiming to be in distress and needing cash.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsHakodate Airport is connected to notable spots in the city by buses through these stops: Otherwise, National Route 278 follows the south coast towards Hakodate Station while Prefectural Route 100 goes through the northern edges of the city proper towards Hokuto. Taxis are plentiful, if relatively expensive. Price estimates are as follows (20% surcharge added between 22:00 and 05:00): Hakodate Liner (はこだてライナー) shuttle trains connect these stations, timed to match the bullet train schedule. Hokuto limited express train connect these stations northbound to Onuma Quasi-National Park, Toyako, Noboribetsu, and Sapporo. It takes approximately 4½ hours to reach Hakodate from Tokyo using the Hayabusa bullet train and the Hakodate Liner. A one-way trip costs ¥23,500 in standard class, and is fully covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. With the bullet train expanding north to Otaru and Sapporo, the new mayor of Hakodate is considering a plan to connect Hakodate Station directly to the network....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
Hakodate is connected by two (practically one that branches to the SW of the city) streetcar lines and roughly two-hundred bus lines. Take a ticket or tap the IC card reader when boarding, then drop the ticket in the ticket box or tap again when getting off. Nationwide IC cards can be used in Hakodate, but using the local ICAS nimoca cuts ¥160 off bus-bus/bus-streetcar transfers, though it's probably not worth the hassle for travelers to create a card for this discount alone. Pay exact amounts in cash, and use the 両替 machine next to the ticket box to exchange coins or ¥1000 bills to smaller denominations if needed. Larger bills and the new (silver core with gold ring) ¥500 coins can only be exchanged with the driver. Day passes costs ¥600 for the streetcar, ¥800 for the bus, or ¥1,000 for both. Most passes can only be purchased from the DohNa!!! website, but streetcar-only paper passes can still be purchased from the driver when delighting.
Where to Stay
Visitors unused to icy conditions should be careful in winter of the icy conditions, particularly of black ice. Cars may skid in the streets and pedestrians can fall victim to it on the sidewalks. Do as the Japanese do: simply stand up and keep walking like nothing happened. As elsewhere in Japan, Hakodate is comparatively very safe when it comes to petty crime. One exception that seems to happen in Hokkaido, albeit rarely even then, is being approached by a foreigner claiming to be in distress and needing cash. They will tell you that an ATM swallowed their card or some other sob story and that they cannot speak Japanese but strangely are not interested in being accompanied to the police so you can translate for them. This will likely occur in a touristy area and they don't pose any danger. Simply direct them to the nearest police box, there is one near the station.
Money & Budget
Two department stores sandwiching the 五稜郭公園前 (Goryōkaku-kōen-mae) streetcar stop are available in Hakodate: Hakodate's signature fish is squid and its signature dish is Hakodate shio rāmen (noodle with salty soup. not to be confused with shoyu ramen), a version of the ubiquitous noodle dish prepared with — you guessed it — squid stock instead of the usual pork. Nearby Mori-machi is also reputed to have Japan's finest ika-meshi, rice-stuffed squid. If you dare, eat the odori-don or ike ika-don dish, where a live squid is caught from the fish tank, its head removed, sliced and served as a side dish, and the rest placed on top of a rice bowl.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
Visitors unused to icy conditions should be careful in winter of the icy conditions, particularly of black ice. Cars may skid in the streets and pedestrians can fall victim to it on the sidewalks. Do as the Japanese do: simply stand up and keep walking like nothing happened. As elsewhere in Japan, Hakodate is comparatively very safe when it comes to petty crime. One exception that seems to happen in Hokkaido, albeit rarely even then, is being approached by a foreigner claiming to be in distress and needing cash. They will tell you that an ATM swallowed their card or some other sob story and that they cannot speak Japanese but strangely are not interested in being accompanied to the police so you can translate for them. This will likely occur in a touristy area and they don't pose any danger. Simply direct them to the nearest police box, there is one near the station.
Glimpses of Hakodate
Northern view of the city from Mount Hakodate, with Hakodate Bay to the left and the Tsugaru Strait to the right, Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.
The harbor view hill, Yahatazaka in Hakodate, Japan.
View of Goryokaku (Star Fort) [五稜郭] from Goryokaku Tower, Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.
Hakodate city, Hokkaido Japan
aerial view of cityscape and body of water
Goryōkaku, Hakodate, Hokkaido
white and yellow tram on road during daytime
cars passing by city streets during daytime
brown and gray concrete house
函馆朝市
Northern view of the city from Mount Hakodate, with Hakodate Bay to the left and the Tsugaru Strait to the right, Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.
The harbor view hill, Yahatazaka in Hakodate, Japan.
View of Goryokaku (Star Fort) [五稜郭] from Goryokaku Tower, Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.