Dharamsala
Discover Dharamsala
Dharamsala (Hindi: धर्मशाला, pronounced [d̪ʱərəmˈɕaːlaː] or [d̪ʱərmˈɕaːlaː]; Tibetan: དྷ་རམ་ས་ལ་), is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan community centred on the activities of the Dalai Lama. The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back to the 8th century, although most of the local population long since reverted to (and remains) Hindu. "Dharamsala" literally means an "inn attached to a temple", and it was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became too crowded and the British moved 2 of their regiments in the late 1840s to what is now Dharamsala. Over the years, this grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the location is now known as the Police Lines.
What to Experience in Dharamsala
Taste of Dharamsala...
The momos sold by numerous Tibetan street vendors usually sell at ₹10 for 4 pieces. These are safe to eat and acceptable to the Western palate even if they cannot be expected to match the level of culinary delicacy of those offered by some of the best establishments listed below. Dharamsala is a good place to try Tibetan food and beverages: McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to upper range that cater to foreign tourists. Also, Bhagsu and Dharamkot offer great local, fusion and foreign food places—hummus and falafel are not uncommon. Prices in Dharamsala generally tend to be 50-100% higher than in other (non-touristy) parts of India. Furthermore, non-Indian food often carries a steep surcharge. Refill your waterbottle with filtered-water at one of the many water-filtering stations: LHA at Temple Rd, Environmental Education Centre at Bhasgu Rd and Dogga-Centre at Jogiwara Rd. Some restaurants, including Nick's and Green Hotel also offer filtered water refills for a charge (₹5, but Green Hotel asks for ₹10). Many of the above listed restaurants and bakeries are also great for having a coffee or tea and enjoying the view—check there. McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, but its main streets (esp. Bhagsu Rd) suffer from the usual Indian curse of beeping cars, motorbikes and rickshaws. It is easy to find something suitable—just walk around and ask for a good price.
Climate
Lower Dharamsala is at an altitude of 1,400 m, while McLeod Ganj is at around 1,750 m, making them considerably cooler than the plains below. Temperatures in January can dip below freezing, while June can go up to 38°C. The monsoon from July to September is very wet. Even in March, when the Dalai Lama holds his teachings and the weather down in Delhi is balmy, you will still need a heavy winter coat. These can be purchased at reasonable prices in the town. Kangra Airport (DHM) is at Gaggal near Kangra, a distance of 15 km from McLeod Ganj by road on MDR44 and NH 154. It was the case that some public HRTC buses to Delhi and Pathankot go all the way to the main square of McLeod Ganj, where you could also book advance tickets for the return trip, but this seems no longer to be the case. Privately operated buses travel from Manali, Dehradun and Delhi. Overnight buses travel from Delhi with many leaving from the Tibetan colony of Majnu ka Tilla.
Essential Information
Getting There
Multiple OptionsKangra Airport (DHM) is at Gaggal near Kangra, a distance of 15 km from McLeod Ganj by road on MDR44 and NH 154. It was the case that some public HRTC buses to Delhi and Pathankot go all the way to the main square of McLeod Ganj, where you could also book advance tickets for the return trip, but this seems no longer to be the case. Privately operated buses travel from Manali, Dehradun and Delhi. Overnight buses travel from Delhi with many leaving from the Tibetan colony of Majnu ka Tilla. These services take upwards of 13 hr and cost ₹450–1,000 for a Volvo. The nearest mainline train station is at Pathankot and the neighbouring small station of Chakki Bank, a comfortable overnight journey from Delhi. Train fans can continue from Pathankot on the slow and rickety but pretty narrow-gauge Kangra Valley Railway to Kangra, a journey of 4 hr. In Kangra walk or take a rickshaw to the bus stop from where buses to Dharamsala go. The train actually continues further to Jogindernagar from Kangra....
Getting Around & Staying
Getting Around
Dharamsala is divided into several distinct areas that are separated by a 15 min or 12 km bus or jeep ride at most: Villages near McLeod Ganj include Forsyth Ganj, in between Lower and Upper Dharamsala. And for a more quiet and basic experience, try Naddi (3 km, and a great viewpoint) or Talnu (11 km). All these places are small enough to be navigated on foot—McLeod, Bhagsu, Dharamkot and Haini are closest to each other (max. 20 min on foot), while Lower Dharamsala is further away. Between McLeod Ganj and Dharamkot shared taxis run roughly hourly and cost ₹20 (2023) Be prepared to bargain. Chartered auto-rickshaws charge around ₹250. Trips from McLeod Ganj to nearby points (e.g. Bhagsu) cost ₹50–150. There are separate counters for auto-rickshaws and taxis near the center square. Walk to them and rent vehicles and avoid people who walk up to you and offer to take you to places.
Where to Stay
McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, but its main streets (esp. Bhagsu Rd) suffer from the usual Indian curse of beeping cars, motorbikes and rickshaws. It is easy to find something suitable—just walk around and ask for a good price. Always let you show at least two different rooms before you decide. Two hostels worth mentioning in McLeod Ganj are 32.23540476.3276161 Mitra 2 and 32.23501676.3259722 Hosteller—walk-ins seem to be advantageous. A higher concentration of hostels (and backpackers) can be found in Bhagsu and Haini, besides the usual homestays, hotel, etc.. Hostels worth mentioning here are 32.252376.3290493 Mitra and 32.25069676.3301694 Young Monk—walk-ins seem to be advantageous. For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on Jogiwara Road; there are about a dozen cheap good places, with great views. The place is safe, though it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.
Money & Budget
Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala such as jewellery and trinkets, woollen shawls, prayer flags, prayer wheels, carpets, thangka and mandala paintings. The momos sold by numerous Tibetan street vendors usually sell at ₹10 for 4 pieces. These are safe to eat and acceptable to the Western palate even if they cannot be expected to match the level of culinary delicacy of those offered by some of the best establishments listed below. Dharamsala is a good place to try Tibetan food and beverages: McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to upper range that cater to foreign tourists. Also, Bhagsu and Dharamkot offer great local, fusion and foreign food places—hummus and falafel are not uncommon.
Safety Information
Safety Overview
The place is safe, though it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.
Glimpses of Dharamsala
City view from Mcleodganj
Mountains rise under a cloudy sky.
Mountains and clouds under a beautiful, vast sky.
Mountains and trees sit under a bright blue sky.
Majestic mountains rise against a clear, blue sky.
Mountains under a beautiful blue sky and a fluffy cloud.
Sunset paints the sky with vibrant colors.
People watch the sunrise over a mountain landscape.
Mountains tower above a valley with trees and snow.
Rocky hillside is covered in lush green vegetation.
City view from Mcleodganj
Mountains rise under a cloudy sky.
Mountains and clouds under a beautiful, vast sky.